diff --git a/portfolio/pages/en/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/smc-2025-gundam.md b/portfolio/pages/en/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/smc-2025-gundam.md
index a1017a5..7d7cc7a 100644
--- a/portfolio/pages/en/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/smc-2025-gundam.md
+++ b/portfolio/pages/en/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/smc-2025-gundam.md
@@ -20,31 +20,157 @@ purchase_location: "Veldhoven, Netherlands"
## About the model
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+ Box
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### Zeta Gundam anime
This mobile suit appears in the 1985 anime series "Mobile Suit Zeta Gundam". It is created by the Titans, a special forces group within the Earth Federation Forces created to deal with Zeon remnants following events in the 1991 OVA "Mobile Suit Gundam 0083: Stardust Memory".
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+ The RX-178 mark 2, Titans version
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The RX-178 mark II was created based of the iconic RX-78-2 and three prototypes were created. At the beginning of the series, two of these prototypes were stolen by the Anti Earth Union Group (A.E.U.G.). This faction was created to reform the corrupt Earth Federation and became focussed on fighting the Titans. The last prototype was brought to the A.E.U.G. by Emma Sheen, a defected Titans pilot.
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+ RX-178 mark 2 head
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Two of the prototypes were disassembled and the remaining RX-178 mk.II is repainted white and would become the primary suit used by the main character Kamille Bidan, until the Zeta Gundam is introduced. By then, the mark II will be piloted by Emma Sheen.
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+ The RX-178 mark 2, A.E.U.G. version
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## Parts preparation
I used to keep parts in plastic sandwich bags, a cheap solution to keeping parts organized. But when I was cleaning, I accidently sucked up one of the bags with the vaccuum cleaner... The plastic bag was torn and all the parts were scattered inside the cleaner's bag. Luckily I was able to retrieve all the parts, clean and fix them.
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+ vaccuum cleaner eaten parts
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-Because keeping parts in plastic sandwich bags was not ideal, I bought a little organizer. I was also building a [HGUC Zaku II](../gundam/kawasaki-zaku-ii) at the time.
+Because keeping parts in plastic sandwich bags was not ideal, I bought a little organizer. I was also building a [HGUC Zaku II](/pages/en/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/kawasaki-zaku-ii.html) at the time.
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+ organizer
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## Modifications
@@ -52,25 +178,151 @@ Because keeping parts in plastic sandwich bags was not ideal, I bought a little
The rifle was modified, I wanted to try if I could create a more heavy looking blaster. I cut off the rear of the missle launcher and used that as the front of beam rifle and added some bars to make it a little wider. It worked out rather well, I have not seen this done before, so it looks unique to me.
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+ original beam rifle and missle launcher
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+ cut weapon pieces
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+ re-assembled weapon pieces
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### Armour plates
For a bit more detail, I added some armour plating by cutting pieces of [bread clips](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bread_clip).
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+ broodclip pantser 1
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+ breadclip armour pieces 1
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### Pilot
During my last visit to Japan I found some 1/150 scale soldiers at Seria for 100 Yen. I added one to the cockpit and two to the diorama. I had to cut away some plastic and also added a hole for another LED here as well. These little guys really help uplift the actual size of the Gundam.
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+ Pilot
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### Light spots
@@ -78,55 +330,412 @@ There are several areas on the Gundam where I wanted to add small light emitting
The camera on top of its head would make a nice spot for a light. I cut a snippet off the transparent sprue and then fixed the part again with a piece of bread clip and some putty.
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+ cut head pieces
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+ head piece fixed
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On its head, there is a device that looks a bit like headphones, but is actually a vulcan gun and ammo drum. I do not really understand why this weapon needed an antenna, but thought it looked more like a communications device anyway, so I extended the antenna. I also replaced the fronts with pieces of transparent plastic.
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+ vulcan pod antenna
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+ vulcan pod transparent pieces
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On the chest there are also two cameras, but I made two mistakes here. First, I cut the slivers of transparent plastic too thin and it simply does not look nice. Second, I thought it would be a good idea to slide a rod of the sprue inside the chest to let it conduct light. But this actually diffused the light so much it was not usable and I could no longer get the rod out. It also did not line up perfectly, so it would not have worked anyway. In the end, I just put the included stickers over these parts. Maybe next time I can do better at these.
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+ modified chest pieces
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The head piece allowed me to easily drill two holes for the eyes.
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+ drilled holes for the eyes
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### Wiring
I wanted to hide all the wiring, so I had to drill many holes and remove lots of the plastic insides to make this possible. Eventually all wires would come out through the bottom of the feet and through holes in the diorama. The thrusters on the backpack also were provided with LEDs.
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+ rifle wiring
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+ vulcan pod wiring
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+ backpack wiring
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+ head wiring
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+ joints wiring
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+ leg wiring
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+ rifle arm wiring
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## Primer
-Now that all the parts were ready, they could be primed with Mr. Surfacer. I covered the eyes with masking tape. I was also working on a [Ki-55 airplane](../military-airplanes/tachikawa-ki-55-trainer) at the time.
+Now that all the parts were ready, they could be primed with Mr. Surfacer. I covered the eyes with masking tape. I was also working on a [Ki-55 airplane](/pages/en/plamo/model-kits/airplanes/military/ki-55.html) at the time.
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+ primed parts
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+ primed backpack
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+ primed head
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The masking tape I put over the eyes had to be protected further, so I put a piece of paper over it an taped it further with Tamiya masking tape. In hindsight, it might have been easier to just paint the transparent parts around the eyes with acylic paint and a paint brush instead of using the airbrush.
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+ masked head
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## Paint
@@ -136,27 +745,174 @@ I didn't want to use the original Titans colour scheme, though the original dark
In the end, maybe the baby blue didn't work out too well, it looks to much like a police vehicle rather than a military one. If I had used a grey for the main colour, I think it would have turned out better. I did really like the C78 Mr. Color Metal Black colour.
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+ main blue colour
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+ metal colours
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+ painted vents
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I wanted to paint orange around the vents, so I masked them with Tamiya masking fluid.
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+ vents masking fluid
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For the orange accents I used Tamiya LP-51 orange, but I had a hard time masking the shoulders, so I used Citadel acrylic Troll Slayer orange paint to paint those parts with a brush. Also my masking fluid covered a bit too much on the vents, so I touched up those parts with acrylic paint as well.
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+ orange colour parts
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### Stripes
Then I prepared the parts for the white stripes. I used Tamiya LP-2 white for this. The final result was a bit messy, sometimes I get underspray where the airbrush slightly lifts the tape and cause paint to be applied on areas where I did not want to.
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+ masked parts
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+ white stripes
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## Decals
@@ -164,17 +920,80 @@ I used various decals. The "Earth Alliance" ones come from Bandai's 30 Minutes M
The [grey parrot](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grey_parrot) on the left shoulder is a the symbol of the [322 squadron](https://www.defensie.nl/onderwerpen/emblemen/emblemen-koninklijke-luchtmacht/322-squadron) of the Dutch Royal Airforce. The parrot is named "Polley Grey" and serves as a mascot for the squadron on [F-16 Fighting Falcon](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Dynamics_F-16_Fighting_Falcon) jets. The squadron's motto is: "Niet praten, maar doen." ("Don't talk, but do.").
-Because this is the second completed figure from the Gundam series I made, after the [Kawasaki Zaku II](../gundam/kawasaki-zaku-ii), it gets "02" as its designated number.
+Because this is the second completed figure from the Gundam series I made, after the [Kawasaki Zaku II](/pages/en/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/kawasaki-zaku-ii.html), it gets "02" as its designated number.
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+ all parts
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+ Bandai 30 M.M. Decals
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## Varnish
After applying the decals, I coated the entire paint with C181 Mr. Color clear coat.
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+ clear coat
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## Assembly
@@ -182,67 +1001,403 @@ Now that all parts were painted, I could now assemble it. All wires had to be ro
### Rifle arm
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+ assembly arm 1
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+ assembly arm 2
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### Torso
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+ assembly torso 1
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+ assembly torso 2
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### Waist
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+ assembly waist 1
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+ assembly waist 2
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### Legs
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+ assembly legs
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### Feet pistons
There were little pistons at the foot sections, I drilled some holes and added these brass rods to add a little extra detail.
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+ feet pistons
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### Complete assembly
The Gundam is now completely assembled, which is always a euforic moment. Many hours of work come together to form a complete whole.
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+ complete assembly
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## Diorama
Now to move on and create something for the Gundam to stand on. I am not a good diorama maker, but I have to start somewhere. I used AK's carving foam to make a beat up wall. And while this foam shapes very nicely, I had some issues with it easily chipping off. And because it is orange, it is very visible. I primed, painted and clear coated it, but it still chips upon touch. I need to investigate if I was doing something wrong with it.
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+ AK carving foam
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I sawed two pieces of wood, a thicker multiplex piece that would have enough space for screws and hold the electronics. And a piece of MDF, where the diorama and the model would be put on.
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+ wood bases
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Some more progress on the diorama. I used a cork plate with a layer of AK's Asphalt texture to give it some a rougher look. Using white PVA glue, I added sand around the place. Slight drybrushing and using washes quickly adds depth to a simple diorama like this.
-I also added a little bread clip device on the wall where some black muck come out of. There is also an unused leftover piece from a MG RX-78-2 Version Katoki kit.
+I also added a little bread clip device on the wall where some black muck come out of. There is also an unused leftover piece from a [MG RX-78-2](/pages/en/plamo/model-kits/gundam/mg/rx-78-2-ver-ka.html) Version Katoki kit.
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+ diorama progress 1
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+ diorama progress 2
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+ diorama progress 3
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## Electronics
I had already made a tester circuit on a breadboard to test the LEDs with a 9 volt battery, to make sure the LEDs work and give the desired effect before glueing them to the plastic parts. I added a [decoupling capacitor](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decoupling_capacitor) to make sure the LEDs are provided with a gradual voltage increase on power up and a gradual decrease in voltage when powered down. This gives the effect that the lights do not instantly turn on and off, but fade in and out. It is also better for the LEDs I think.
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+ tester circuit 1
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The actual circuit would make use of a PIR (Proximity Infrared) sensor and a 12 volt power source by using 8 AA batteries of 1,5 volt.
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+ tester circuit 2
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As for the LEDs I used the following:
@@ -257,54 +1412,369 @@ All of these are **Miniature Wired LEDs - 0805 SMT LED**, by Adafruit. What is i
Now that I knew what I wanted, I could use a small [perfboard](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfboard) and solder some connectors to it. Those green and blue connectors are called terminal blocks and are ideal for connecting wires. I bought those at the [ModelSpoorBeurs](https://www.msvw.nl/) event in Weert from a stand called [modelbouwled.nl](https://modelbouwled.nl) in the Netherlands. This place has a lot of material related to the train hobby, including these very useful electronics. The decoupling capacitor is a Panasonic 16 volt, 2200μF capacitor. And finally a little toggle switch and a 1KΩ potentiometer in parallel to slightly alter the brightness to my liking.
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+ board created
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Of course this board also had to be tested with some LEDs.
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+ board testing
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A simple way to attach the electronics is to screw them in the wood. If I want to re-use these parts for a new model, I can easily take it apart.
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+ electronics on the wooden board
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Those larger screws in the corners and middle of the wooden board are to balance the diorama on top. This is very convenient, as you can just screw it in deeper to make adjustments.
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+ diorama on top
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## Frame
To hide the electronics, I cut some plastic pieces from Evergreen Scale Models plate with a Tamiya Scriber. To prepare them for airbrushing, it helps to cement some pieces of sprue on the back, so that they can be easily clipped. The backsides will not be visible later.
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+ evergreen scale models frame plates
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+ frame plates preparation
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+ frame airbrushed
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With the frame painted, it could now be attached to the wooden board. I used CA glue for this, along with some hot glue. Though I am not sure how effective the hot glue will hold hold it to the wood, it might just help a bit. I did score the plastic with a knife before attaching, basically adding lots of deep scratches. This helps the CA glue to grip a little more onto the plastic. It turned out pretty sturdy, so I think this worked well. I did not use the two smaller plates, it was easier to remove the top diorama this way and it made it less noticable that the lowest wood piece was not symmetrical.
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+ frame glued
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+ box complete
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## Completing the model
With the box complete, I could now attach the Gundam to it and connect the wires underneath. It turned out the wires for the rifle were just too short, so I extended those by soldering additional wire and sealing it with a heatshrink.
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+ model complete
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+ heatshrink
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I wanted to add something more to the diorama, so I created a field antenna and added some more soldiers. Especially these soldiers help add scale to the whole Gundam, because my diorama does not help. The wall is huge, so at least now it is easier to get an impression of the scale.
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+ antenna
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+ soldiers
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And another moment of euforia, is to finally see all those LED's turn on, to see my work paid off in the end. Although, those warm-white LED's give it a bit of a desk lamp feeling, I think I should have used orange there instead.
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+ Gundam, power on!
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+ desk lamp included
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## Scale Model Challenge 2025
diff --git a/portfolio/pages/jp/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/smc-2025-gundam.md b/portfolio/pages/jp/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/smc-2025-gundam.md
index 739cad0..50011fa 100644
--- a/portfolio/pages/jp/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/smc-2025-gundam.md
+++ b/portfolio/pages/jp/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/smc-2025-gundam.md
@@ -26,31 +26,157 @@ purchase_location: "ヴェトホーフェン、オランダ"
## About the model
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+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ Box
+
+
+
### Zeta Gundam anime
This mobile suit appears in the 1985 anime series "Mobile Suit Zeta Gundam". It is created by the Titans, a special forces group within the Earth Federation Forces created to deal with Zeon remnants following events in the 1991 OVA "Mobile Suit Gundam 0083: Stardust Memory".
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ The RX-178 mark 2, Titans version
+
+
+
The RX-178 mark II was created based of the iconic RX-78-2 and three prototypes were created. At the beginning of the series, two of these prototypes were stolen by the Anti Earth Union Group (A.E.U.G.). This faction was created to reform the corrupt Earth Federation and became focussed on fighting the Titans. The last prototype was brought to the A.E.U.G. by Emma Sheen, a defected Titans pilot.
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+
+
+
+
+
+
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+ RX-178 mark 2 head
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+
+
Two of the prototypes were disassembled and the remaining RX-178 mk.II is repainted white and would become the primary suit used by the main character Kamille Bidan, until the Zeta Gundam is introduced. By then, the mark II will be piloted by Emma Sheen.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ The RX-178 mark 2, A.E.U.G. version
+
+
+
## Parts preparation
I used to keep parts in plastic sandwich bags, a cheap solution to keeping parts organized. But when I was cleaning, I accidently sucked up one of the bags with the vaccuum cleaner... The plastic bag was torn and all the parts were scattered inside the cleaner's bag. Luckily I was able to retrieve all the parts, clean and fix them.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ vaccuum cleaner eaten parts
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+
+
-Because keeping parts in plastic sandwich bags was not ideal, I bought a little organizer. I was also building a [HGUC Zaku II](../gundam/kawasaki-zaku-ii) at the time.
+Because keeping parts in plastic sandwich bags was not ideal, I bought a little organizer. I was also building a [HGUC Zaku II](/pages/jp/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/kawasaki-zaku-ii.html) at the time.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
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+ organizer
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+
+
## Modifications
@@ -58,25 +184,151 @@ Because keeping parts in plastic sandwich bags was not ideal, I bought a little
The rifle was modified, I wanted to try if I could create a more heavy looking blaster. I cut off the rear of the missle launcher and used that as the front of beam rifle and added some bars to make it a little wider. It worked out rather well, I have not seen this done before, so it looks unique to me.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ original beam rifle and missle launcher
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+
+
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+ cut weapon pieces
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+
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+ re-assembled weapon pieces
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+
+
### Armour plates
For a bit more detail, I added some armour plating by cutting pieces of [bread clips](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bread_clip).
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ broodclip pantser 1
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+
+
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+
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+ breadclip armour pieces 1
+
+
+
### Pilot
During my last visit to Japan I found some 1/150 scale soldiers at Seria for 100 Yen. I added one to the cockpit and two to the diorama. I had to cut away some plastic and also added a hole for another LED here as well. These little guys really help uplift the actual size of the Gundam.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ Pilot
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+
+
### Light spots
@@ -84,55 +336,412 @@ There are several areas on the Gundam where I wanted to add small light emitting
The camera on top of its head would make a nice spot for a light. I cut a snippet off the transparent sprue and then fixed the part again with a piece of bread clip and some putty.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ cut head pieces
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+
+
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+ head piece fixed
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+
+
On its head, there is a device that looks a bit like headphones, but is actually a vulcan gun and ammo drum. I do not really understand why this weapon needed an antenna, but thought it looked more like a communications device anyway, so I extended the antenna. I also replaced the fronts with pieces of transparent plastic.
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+ vulcan pod antenna
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+ vulcan pod transparent pieces
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+
+
On the chest there are also two cameras, but I made two mistakes here. First, I cut the slivers of transparent plastic too thin and it simply does not look nice. Second, I thought it would be a good idea to slide a rod of the sprue inside the chest to let it conduct light. But this actually diffused the light so much it was not usable and I could no longer get the rod out. It also did not line up perfectly, so it would not have worked anyway. In the end, I just put the included stickers over these parts. Maybe next time I can do better at these.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ modified chest pieces
+
+
+
The head piece allowed me to easily drill two holes for the eyes.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ drilled holes for the eyes
+
+
+
### Wiring
I wanted to hide all the wiring, so I had to drill many holes and remove lots of the plastic insides to make this possible. Eventually all wires would come out through the bottom of the feet and through holes in the diorama. The thrusters on the backpack also were provided with LEDs.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ rifle wiring
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ vulcan pod wiring
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ backpack wiring
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ head wiring
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ joints wiring
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ leg wiring
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ rifle arm wiring
+
+
+
## Primer
-Now that all the parts were ready, they could be primed with Mr. Surfacer. I covered the eyes with masking tape. I was also working on a [Ki-55 airplane](../military-airplanes/tachikawa-ki-55-trainer) at the time.
+Now that all the parts were ready, they could be primed with Mr. Surfacer. I covered the eyes with masking tape. I was also working on a [Ki-55 airplane](/pages/jp/plamo/model-kits/airplanes/military/ki-55.html) at the time.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ primed parts
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ primed backpack
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ primed head
+
+
+
The masking tape I put over the eyes had to be protected further, so I put a piece of paper over it an taped it further with Tamiya masking tape. In hindsight, it might have been easier to just paint the transparent parts around the eyes with acylic paint and a paint brush instead of using the airbrush.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ masked head
+
+
+
## Paint
@@ -142,27 +751,174 @@ I didn't want to use the original Titans colour scheme, though the original dark
In the end, maybe the baby blue didn't work out too well, it looks to much like a police vehicle rather than a military one. If I had used a grey for the main colour, I think it would have turned out better. I did really like the C78 Mr. Color Metal Black colour.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ main blue colour
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ metal colours
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ painted vents
+
+
+
I wanted to paint orange around the vents, so I masked them with Tamiya masking fluid.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ vents masking fluid
+
+
+
For the orange accents I used Tamiya LP-51 orange, but I had a hard time masking the shoulders, so I used Citadel acrylic Troll Slayer orange paint to paint those parts with a brush. Also my masking fluid covered a bit too much on the vents, so I touched up those parts with acrylic paint as well.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ orange colour parts
+
+
+
### Stripes
Then I prepared the parts for the white stripes. I used Tamiya LP-2 white for this. The final result was a bit messy, sometimes I get underspray where the airbrush slightly lifts the tape and cause paint to be applied on areas where I did not want to.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ masked parts
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ white stripes
+
+
+
## Decals
@@ -170,17 +926,80 @@ I used various decals. The "Earth Alliance" ones come from Bandai's 30 Minutes M
The [grey parrot](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grey_parrot) on the left shoulder is a the symbol of the [322 squadron](https://www.defensie.nl/onderwerpen/emblemen/emblemen-koninklijke-luchtmacht/322-squadron) of the Dutch Royal Airforce. The parrot is named "Polley Grey" and serves as a mascot for the squadron on [F-16 Fighting Falcon](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Dynamics_F-16_Fighting_Falcon) jets. The squadron's motto is: "Niet praten, maar doen." ("Don't talk, but do.").
-Because this is the second completed figure from the Gundam series I made, after the [Kawasaki Zaku II](../gundam/kawasaki-zaku-ii), it gets "02" as its designated number.
+Because this is the second completed figure from the Gundam series I made, after the [Kawasaki Zaku II](/pages/jp/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/kawasaki-zaku-ii.html), it gets "02" as its designated number.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ all parts
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ Bandai 30 M.M. Decals
+
+
+
## Varnish
After applying the decals, I coated the entire paint with C181 Mr. Color clear coat.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ clear coat
+
+
+
## Assembly
@@ -188,67 +1007,403 @@ Now that all parts were painted, I could now assemble it. All wires had to be ro
### Rifle arm
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ assembly arm 1
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ assembly arm 2
+
+
+
### Torso
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ assembly torso 1
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ assembly torso 2
+
+
+
### Waist
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ assembly waist 1
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ assembly waist 2
+
+
+
### Legs
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ assembly legs
+
+
+
### Feet pistons
There were little pistons at the foot sections, I drilled some holes and added these brass rods to add a little extra detail.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ feet pistons
+
+
+
### Complete assembly
The Gundam is now completely assembled, which is always a euforic moment. Many hours of work come together to form a complete whole.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ complete assembly
+
+
+
## Diorama
Now to move on and create something for the Gundam to stand on. I am not a good diorama maker, but I have to start somewhere. I used AK's carving foam to make a beat up wall. And while this foam shapes very nicely, I had some issues with it easily chipping off. And because it is orange, it is very visible. I primed, painted and clear coated it, but it still chips upon touch. I need to investigate if I was doing something wrong with it.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ AK carving foam
+
+
+
I sawed two pieces of wood, a thicker multiplex piece that would have enough space for screws and hold the electronics. And a piece of MDF, where the diorama and the model would be put on.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ wood bases
+
+
+
Some more progress on the diorama. I used a cork plate with a layer of AK's Asphalt texture to give it some a rougher look. Using white PVA glue, I added sand around the place. Slight drybrushing and using washes quickly adds depth to a simple diorama like this.
-I also added a little bread clip device on the wall where some black muck come out of. There is also an unused leftover piece from a MG RX-78-2 Version Katoki kit.
+I also added a little bread clip device on the wall where some black muck come out of. There is also an unused leftover piece from a [MG RX-78-2](/pages/jp/plamo/model-kits/gundam/mg/rx-78-2-ver-ka.html) Version Katoki kit.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ diorama progress 1
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ diorama progress 2
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ diorama progress 3
+
+
+
## Electronics
I had already made a tester circuit on a breadboard to test the LEDs with a 9 volt battery, to make sure the LEDs work and give the desired effect before glueing them to the plastic parts. I added a [decoupling capacitor](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decoupling_capacitor) to make sure the LEDs are provided with a gradual voltage increase on power up and a gradual decrease in voltage when powered down. This gives the effect that the lights do not instantly turn on and off, but fade in and out. It is also better for the LEDs I think.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ tester circuit 1
+
+
+
The actual circuit would make use of a PIR (Proximity Infrared) sensor and a 12 volt power source by using 8 AA batteries of 1,5 volt.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ tester circuit 2
+
+
+
As for the LEDs I used the following:
@@ -263,54 +1418,369 @@ All of these are **Miniature Wired LEDs - 0805 SMT LED**, by Adafruit. What is i
Now that I knew what I wanted, I could use a small [perfboard](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfboard) and solder some connectors to it. Those green and blue connectors are called terminal blocks and are ideal for connecting wires. I bought those at the [ModelSpoorBeurs](https://www.msvw.nl/) event in Weert from a stand called [modelbouwled.nl](https://modelbouwled.nl) in the Netherlands. This place has a lot of material related to the train hobby, including these very useful electronics. The decoupling capacitor is a Panasonic 16 volt, 2200μF capacitor. And finally a little toggle switch and a 1KΩ potentiometer in parallel to slightly alter the brightness to my liking.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ board created
+
+
+
Of course this board also had to be tested with some LEDs.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ board testing
+
+
+
A simple way to attach the electronics is to screw them in the wood. If I want to re-use these parts for a new model, I can easily take it apart.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ electronics on the wooden board
+
+
+
Those larger screws in the corners and middle of the wooden board are to balance the diorama on top. This is very convenient, as you can just screw it in deeper to make adjustments.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ diorama on top
+
+
+
## Frame
To hide the electronics, I cut some plastic pieces from Evergreen Scale Models plate with a Tamiya Scriber. To prepare them for airbrushing, it helps to cement some pieces of sprue on the back, so that they can be easily clipped. The backsides will not be visible later.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ evergreen scale models frame plates
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ frame plates preparation
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ frame airbrushed
+
+
+
With the frame painted, it could now be attached to the wooden board. I used CA glue for this, along with some hot glue. Though I am not sure how effective the hot glue will hold hold it to the wood, it might just help a bit. I did score the plastic with a knife before attaching, basically adding lots of deep scratches. This helps the CA glue to grip a little more onto the plastic. It turned out pretty sturdy, so I think this worked well. I did not use the two smaller plates, it was easier to remove the top diorama this way and it made it less noticable that the lowest wood piece was not symmetrical.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ frame glued
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ box complete
+
+
+
## Completing the model
With the box complete, I could now attach the Gundam to it and connect the wires underneath. It turned out the wires for the rifle were just too short, so I extended those by soldering additional wire and sealing it with a heatshrink.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ model complete
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ heatshrink
+
+
+
I wanted to add something more to the diorama, so I created a field antenna and added some more soldiers. Especially these soldiers help add scale to the whole Gundam, because my diorama does not help. The wall is huge, so at least now it is easier to get an impression of the scale.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ antenna
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ soldiers
+
+
+
And another moment of euforia, is to finally see all those LED's turn on, to see my work paid off in the end. Although, those warm-white LED's give it a bit of a desk lamp feeling, I think I should have used orange there instead.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ Gundam, power on!
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ desk lamp included
+
+
+
## Scale Model Challenge 2025
diff --git a/portfolio/pages/nl/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/smc-2025-gundam.md b/portfolio/pages/nl/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/smc-2025-gundam.md
index 6568959..7fbfe03 100644
--- a/portfolio/pages/nl/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/smc-2025-gundam.md
+++ b/portfolio/pages/nl/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/smc-2025-gundam.md
@@ -18,293 +18,1765 @@ purchase_venue: "SMC (Scale Model Challenge) 2024"
purchase_location: "Veldhoven, Netherlands"
---
-## About the model
+## Over het model
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ Doosje van het model
+
+
+
### Zeta Gundam anime
-This mobile suit appears in the 1985 anime series "Mobile Suit Zeta Gundam". It is created by the Titans, a special forces group within the Earth Federation Forces created to deal with Zeon remnants following events in the 1991 OVA "Mobile Suit Gundam 0083: Stardust Memory".
+Deze Mobile Suit komt voor in de 1985 anime serie "Mobile Suit Zeta Gundam". Het is een voertuig van de Titans, een speciale eenheid binnen de Earth Federation Forces, die zijn ontstaan om de restanten van Zeon aanhangers aan te pakken, opvolgende aan wat was voorgevallen in de OVA "Mobile Suit Gundam 0083: Stardust Memory" uit 1991.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ The RX-178 mark 2, Titans versie
+
+
+
-The RX-178 mark II was created based of the iconic RX-78-2 and three prototypes were created. At the beginning of the series, two of these prototypes were stolen by the Anti Earth Union Group (A.E.U.G.). This faction was created to reform the corrupt Earth Federation and became focussed on fighting the Titans. The last prototype was brought to the A.E.U.G. by Emma Sheen, a defected Titans pilot.
+De RX-178 mark II was gebaseerd op de iconische RX-78-2. Er zijn drie prototypes gebouwd. Aan het begin van de serie worden twee van deze prototypes gestolen door de Anti Earth Union Group (A.E.U.G.). Deze factie was ontstaan om de corrupte Earth Federation te hervormen en had de focus om te vechten tegen de Titans. Het laatste prototype werd gebracht naar de A.E.U.G. door Emma Sheen, een Titans piloot die was overgelopen.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ RX-178 mark 2 hoofd
+
+
+
-Two of the prototypes were disassembled and the remaining RX-178 mk.II is repainted white and would become the primary suit used by the main character Kamille Bidan, until the Zeta Gundam is introduced. By then, the mark II will be piloted by Emma Sheen.
+Twee van de prototypes werden gedisassembleerd en de overgebleven RX-178 mk.II werd wit overgeverfd en zou het primaire voertuig worden voor de hoofdpersoon Kamille Bidan, totdat de Zeta Gundam wordt geintroduceerd. Daarna wordt de mark II door Emma Sheen bestuurd.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ The RX-178 mark 2, A.E.U.G. versie
+
+
+
-## Parts preparation
+## Onderdelen voorbereiden
-I used to keep parts in plastic sandwich bags, a cheap solution to keeping parts organized. But when I was cleaning, I accidently sucked up one of the bags with the vaccuum cleaner... The plastic bag was torn and all the parts were scattered inside the cleaner's bag. Luckily I was able to retrieve all the parts, clean and fix them.
+Ik bewaarde mijn onderdelen in plastic broodzakjes, een goedkope oplossing om onderdelen te organizeren. Maar toen ik aan het stofzuigen was, zoog ik per ongeluk een keer een van deze zakje de stofzuiger in... Omdat ze bijna geen gewicht hebben. Het plastic zakje was in de stofzuiger opengescheurd en alle onderdeeltjes lagen in de stofzuigerzak. Gelukkig kon ik er alles uit halen en schoonmaken.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ onderdelen opgegeten door de stofzuiger
+
+
+
-Because keeping parts in plastic sandwich bags was not ideal, I bought a little organizer. I was also building a [HGUC Zaku II](../gundam/kawasaki-zaku-ii) at the time.
+Omdat het houden van onderdelen in broodzakjes dus niet ideaal was, kocht ik deze kleine organizer bij de Praxis. Ik was toen ook een [HGUC Zaku II](/pages/nl/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/kawasaki-zaku-ii.html) aan het bouwen.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ organizer
+
+
+
-## Modifications
+## Modificaties
-### Weapon
+### Wapen
-The rifle was modified, I wanted to try if I could create a more heavy looking blaster. I cut off the rear of the missle launcher and used that as the front of beam rifle and added some bars to make it a little wider. It worked out rather well, I have not seen this done before, so it looks unique to me.
+Ik heb het geweer aangepast omdat ik een robuuster wapen wou proberen te maket. Ik had de voorkant van de beam rifle vervangen met de achterkant van de raketwerper. Daarna heb ik ook wat messing staven gebruikt om het een beetje wijder te maken. Ik vond het best goed gelukt, ik had dit nergens eerder gezien, dus het zag er wel goed uit.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ originele beam rifle en raketwerper
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ opgesneden wapen stukken
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ hergeassembleerde wapen
+
+
+
-### Armour plates
+### Bepantsering
-For a bit more detail, I added some armour plating by cutting pieces of [bread clips](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bread_clip).
+Ik heb [broodclipjes](https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broodclipje) gebruikt om stukjes extra pantser toe tevoegen.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ broodclip pantser 1
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ broodclip pantser 2
+
+
+
-### Pilot
+### Piloot
-During my last visit to Japan I found some 1/150 scale soldiers at Seria for 100 Yen. I added one to the cockpit and two to the diorama. I had to cut away some plastic and also added a hole for another LED here as well. These little guys really help uplift the actual size of the Gundam.
+Toen ik in Japan was, vond ik enkele 1/150 schaal soldaatjes bij Seria voor 100 Yen. Ik heb een piloot toegevoegd aan de cockpit en twee soldaatjes aan het diorama. Ik moest veel plastic weghalen en heb ook een gat gemaakt voor een LED. Deze kleine mannetjes maken mooi de schaal van de Gundam duidelijk, zodat je als bekijker beter kunt zien hoe groot deze is.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ Piloot
+
+
+
-### Light spots
+### Verlichting
-There are several areas on the Gundam where I wanted to add small light emitting diodes. But in order to do so, I would have to make sure some parts would become transparent to let the light through.
+Ik wou op enkele plekken van de Gundam een Light Emitting Diode (LED) plaatsen. Om dat te kunnen doen, moest ik sommige stukken vervangen met transparant plastic om het licht door te kunnen laten.
-The camera on top of its head would make a nice spot for a light. I cut a snippet off the transparent sprue and then fixed the part again with a piece of bread clip and some putty.
+De camera in de hanekam op het hoofd was een mooie plek. Ik heb een stukje van de transparante sprue gesneden en daarna het onderdeel weer gerepareerd met een stukje broodclip en een klein beetje putty.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ gesneden hoofd stukjes
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ hoofd onderdeel gerepareerd
+
+
+
-On its head, there is a device that looks a bit like headphones, but is actually a vulcan gun and ammo drum. I do not really understand why this weapon needed an antenna, but thought it looked more like a communications device anyway, so I extended the antenna. I also replaced the fronts with pieces of transparent plastic.
+Rondom het hoofd zat een apparaat dat een beetje lijkt op een koptelefoon, maar eigenlijk is het een vulcan pod geweer met een munitie opslag. Ik weet niet waarom dit wapen een antenne nodig heeft, maar ik vond het meer op een communicatie-apparaat lijken, dus ik heb de antenne verlengd. Ik heb ook stukjes aan de voorkant vervangen met transparant plastic.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ vulcan pod antenne
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ vulcan pod transparente delen
+
+
+
-On the chest there are also two cameras, but I made two mistakes here. First, I cut the slivers of transparent plastic too thin and it simply does not look nice. Second, I thought it would be a good idea to slide a rod of the sprue inside the chest to let it conduct light. But this actually diffused the light so much it was not usable and I could no longer get the rod out. It also did not line up perfectly, so it would not have worked anyway. In the end, I just put the included stickers over these parts. Maybe next time I can do better at these.
+Op de borststuk zaten ook twee cameras die ik wou voorzien van LEDs. Maar ik had hier twee fouten gemaakt. Ten eerste, de stukjes transparante plastic zagen er gewoon niet goed uit. Ten tweede, ik dacht dat het een goed idee zou zijn om een stukje transparante staaf van de sprue in de borst kon steken om het licht te geleiden. In de werkelijkheid werd het licht zo diffuus dat het niet eens meer goed zichtbaar was. Ook zat de staaf niet direct op de opening, dus het had toch niet gewerkt. Daarom heb ik maar gewoon de stickers gebruikt, de volgende keer moet dit beter kunnen.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ aangepaste borst stukken
+
+
+
-The head piece allowed me to easily drill two holes for the eyes.
+Het hoofd onderdeel was makkelijk te bewerken door twee gaatjes te boren voor de ogen.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ geboorde gaatjes voor de oogjes
+
+
+
-### Wiring
+### Bedrading
-I wanted to hide all the wiring, so I had to drill many holes and remove lots of the plastic insides to make this possible. Eventually all wires would come out through the bottom of the feet and through holes in the diorama. The thrusters on the backpack also were provided with LEDs.
+Ik wou alle bedrading verbergen, dus moest ik veel plastic verwijderen aan de binnenkant van plastic onderdelen. Uiteindelijk komen alle draden uit de onderkant van de voeten en gaan door gaten van het diorama naar de rest van de elektronica. De motoren op de achterkant kregen ook LEDs.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ geweer bedrading
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ vulcan pod bedrading
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ rugzak bedrading
+
+
+
-
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+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ hoofd bedrading
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ gewrichten bedrading
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ benen bedrading
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ geweer en arm bedrading
+
+
+
## Primer
-Now that all the parts were ready, they could be primed with Mr. Surfacer. I covered the eyes with masking tape. I was also working on a [Ki-55 airplane](../military-airplanes/tachikawa-ki-55-trainer) at the time.
+Nu dat alle onderdelen klaar waren, kon ik een onderlaag aanbrengen met Mr. Surfacer. Ik had de ogen afgeplakt met uitgesneden stukjes Tamiya maskeertape. Ik was toen ook aan een [Ki-55 vliegtuig](/pages/nl/plamo/model-kits/airplanes/military/ki-55.html) aan het werken destijds.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ onderlaag onderdelen
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ onderlaag rugzak
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ onderlaag hoofd
+
+
+
-The masking tape I put over the eyes had to be protected further, so I put a piece of paper over it an taped it further with Tamiya masking tape. In hindsight, it might have been easier to just paint the transparent parts around the eyes with acylic paint and a paint brush instead of using the airbrush.
+Om de maskeertape over de oogjes te beschermen, had ik een stukje papier onder de volgende laag maskeertape geplaatst. Achteraf gezien was het misschien makkelijker om gewoon de transparante delen rondom de oogjes te schilderen met acrylverf en een kwastje in plaats van de airbrush.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ Gemaskeerd hoofd
+
+
+
-## Paint
+## Verf
-### Colour scheme
+### Kleurenschema
-I didn't want to use the original Titans colour scheme, though the original dark colours did look very cool. Instead I browsed other colour schemes for Gundams and see what I would like. I really liked the **ZGMF-1027M Duel Blitz Gundam** and the **RAG-79-G1 Gundam Marine Type** schemes, so I tried a blue with orange scheme, using Mr. Color and Tamiya colours I already had.
+Ik wou niet de originele Titans kleuren gebruiken, hoewel dat die donkere kleuren best cool zijn. In plaats daarvan heb ik gekeken naar andere kleurenschemas voor Gundam die ik mooi vond, zoals de **ZGMF-1027M Duel Blitz Gundam** en de **RAG-79-G1 Gundam Marine Type**. Dus ik ben gegaan voor een blauw met oranje kleurenschema, met de Mr. Color en Tamiya kleuren die ik al had.
-In the end, maybe the baby blue didn't work out too well, it looks to much like a police vehicle rather than a military one. If I had used a grey for the main colour, I think it would have turned out better. I did really like the C78 Mr. Color Metal Black colour.
+Maar achteraf, was de babyblauwe kleur niet zo'n succes, het lijkt nu meer op een politie-voertuig in plaats van een militair voertuig. Als ik een grijze kleur zou hebben gebruikt als hoofdkleur, zou het beter zijn geworden denk ik. Ik vond de C78 Mr. Color Metal Black kleur wel mooi.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ blauwe hoofdkleur
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ metalen kleuren
+
+
+
-
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+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ gekleurde ventilatie-delen
+
+
+
-I wanted to paint orange around the vents, so I masked them with Tamiya masking fluid.
+Ik wou de ventilatie-delen rondom oranje kleuren, dus maskeerde ik ze met Tamiya maskeervloeistof nadat ze zilver waren gespoten.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ ventilatoren met maskeervloeistof
+
+
+
-For the orange accents I used Tamiya LP-51 orange, but I had a hard time masking the shoulders, so I used Citadel acrylic Troll Slayer orange paint to paint those parts with a brush. Also my masking fluid covered a bit too much on the vents, so I touched up those parts with acrylic paint as well.
+Ik had Tamiya LP-51 Orange gebruikt, maar ik vond het lastig om de schouders te maskeren, dus die heb ik met Troll Slayer Orange acrylverf van Citadel geschilderd met een kwast. De maskeervloeistof maskeerde ook iets te veel van de ventilatoren, dus die heb ik aangepunt met oranje acrylverf.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ oranje onderdelen
+
+
+
-### Stripes
+### Strepen
-Then I prepared the parts for the white stripes. I used Tamiya LP-2 white for this. The final result was a bit messy, sometimes I get underspray where the airbrush slightly lifts the tape and cause paint to be applied on areas where I did not want to.
+Daarna heb ik de onderdelen voorbereid om witte stepen op aan te brengen. Daarvoor heb ik Tamiya LP-2 White voor gebruikt. Het eindresultaat was een beetje rommelig, omdat de luchtdruk van de airbrush stukjes van de maskeertape omhoog tilde. Daardoor kwamen er spatjes lak waar ik ze niet wilde hebben.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ gemaskeerde onderdelen
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ witte strepen
+
+
+
## Decals
-I used various decals. The "Earth Alliance" ones come from Bandai's 30 Minutes Missions multi-use 3 sheet, for the Provedel figure.
+Ik had verschillende decals. De "Earth Alliance" decals komen van Bandai's 30 Minutes Missions multi-use 3 vel, bedoeld voor de Provedel figuur.
-The [grey parrot](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grey_parrot) on the left shoulder is a the symbol of the [322 squadron](https://www.defensie.nl/onderwerpen/emblemen/emblemen-koninklijke-luchtmacht/322-squadron) of the Dutch Royal Airforce. The parrot is named "Polley Grey" and serves as a mascot for the squadron on [F-16 Fighting Falcon](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Dynamics_F-16_Fighting_Falcon) jets. The squadron's motto is: "Niet praten, maar doen." ("Don't talk, but do.").
+De [grijze roodstaart](https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grijze_roodstaartpapegaai) op de linkerschouder is een symbool van het Nederlandse [322 squadron](https://www.defensie.nl/onderwerpen/emblemen/emblemen-koninklijke-luchtmacht/322-squadron) van de Koninklijke Luchtmacht. De papegaai heet "Polley Grey" in is de mascotte voor het squadron op onder andere de [F-16 Fighting Falcon](https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-16_Fighting_Falcon) straaljagers. Het motto van het squadron is: "Niet praten, maar doen.".
-Because this is the second completed figure from the Gundam series I made, after the [Kawasaki Zaku II](../gundam/kawasaki-zaku-ii), it gets "02" as its designated number.
+En omdat dit voor mij het tweede complete figuur van de Gundam series is, na de [Kawasaki Zaku II](/pages/nl/plamo/model-kits/gundam/hg/kawasaki-zaku-ii.html), krijgt deze het nummer "02".
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ alle onderdelen
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ Bandai 30 M.M. Decals
+
+
+
-## Varnish
+## Vernis
-After applying the decals, I coated the entire paint with C181 Mr. Color clear coat.
+Na het aanbrengen van de decals, heb ik het geheel een laag gegeven met C181 Mr. Color Clear Coat.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ Blanke lak
+
+
+
-## Assembly
+## Assembleren
-Now that all parts were painted, I could now assemble it. All wires had to be routed to the torso and then trough the waist. Then they were split up into 5 sets of wires, so that each set could go through the legs.
+Nu dat alle onderdelen van verf waren voorzien, kon de Gundam in elkaar worden gezet. Alle draden moesten via de torso en vervolgens door het middel. Daar werden ze gesplitst in 5 setjes, zodat ze vervolgens via de benen naar beneden konden worden geleid.
-### Rifle arm
+### Geweer arm
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ assembleren arm 1
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ assembleren arm 2
+
+
+
### Torso
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ assembly torso 1
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ assembly torso 2
+
+
+
-### Waist
+### Middel
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ assembleren middel 1
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ assembleren middel 2
+
+
+
-### Legs
+### Benen
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ assembleren benen
+
+
+
-### Feet pistons
+### Voet cylinder zuigers
-There were little pistons at the foot sections, I drilled some holes and added these brass rods to add a little extra detail.
+Er zaten kleine cylinders bij de voeten, ik had een paar gaatjes hier in geboord en een messing staafje toegevoegd voor wat extra detail.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ voet cylinders
+
+
+
-### Complete assembly
+### Complete kit
-The Gundam is now completely assembled, which is always a euforic moment. Many hours of work come together to form a complete whole.
+De Gundam is nu compleet geassembleerd, wat altijd een leuk en euforisch momentje is. Vele uren werk komen nu samen om één geheel te vormen.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ complete kit
+
+
+
## Diorama
-Now to move on and create something for the Gundam to stand on. I am not a good diorama maker, but I have to start somewhere. I used AK's carving foam to make a beat up wall. And while this foam shapes very nicely, I had some issues with it easily chipping off. And because it is orange, it is very visible. I primed, painted and clear coated it, but it still chips upon touch. I need to investigate if I was doing something wrong with it.
+Nu moet er iets gemaakt worden waar de Gundam nog op kan staan. Ik ben geen goede diorama-maker, maar ik moet ergens beginnen. Ik heb AK's Carving Foam gebruikt om een kapotte muur na te maken. En hoewel dit schuim een mooie vorm aanneemt, had ik best wat problemen omdat de verf er heel makkelijk af komt. En omdat het schuim oranje is, is het heel erg zichtbaar. Ik heb er primer op gespoten, daarna lak en vernis. Maar er kwamen nog steeds stukjes af. Ik moet uitzoeken wat er mis mee was.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ AK carving foam
+
+
+
-I sawed two pieces of wood, a thicker multiplex piece that would have enough space for screws and hold the electronics. And a piece of MDF, where the diorama and the model would be put on.
+I heb twee stukken hout gezaagd. Een dikker multiplex stuk die genoeg ruimte heeft voor wat schroeven waar de elektronica op kan. En een stuk MDF, waar uiteindelijk het diorama en het figuur op komen te staan.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ houten voetstukken
+
+
+
-Some more progress on the diorama. I used a cork plate with a layer of AK's Asphalt texture to give it some a rougher look. Using white PVA glue, I added sand around the place. Slight drybrushing and using washes quickly adds depth to a simple diorama like this.
+Nog wat meer voortgang aan het diorama. Ik heb een kurken plaat gesneden met een laag van AK's Asphalt textuur om het een wat ruiger uiterlijk te geven. Met witte PVA lijm kon ik wat zand vastmaken rondom de kurkplaat. Met een beetje drybrushing en een wash aan te brengen kon ik het snel een beetje diepte geven aan een simpel dioramaatje als dit.
-I also added a little bread clip device on the wall where some black muck come out of. There is also an unused leftover piece from a MG RX-78-2 Version Katoki kit.
+Ook heb ik een klein apparaatje gemaakt van broodclipjes waar wat zwarte rommel uit komt. Er zit ook een ongebruikt overgebleven stukje van een [MG RX-78-2](/pages/nl/plamo/model-kits/gundam/mg/rx-78-2-ver-ka.html) versie Katoki kit.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ diorama voortgang 1
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ diorama voortgang 2
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ diorama voortgang 3
+
+
+
-## Electronics
+## Elektronica
-I had already made a tester circuit on a breadboard to test the LEDs with a 9 volt battery, to make sure the LEDs work and give the desired effect before glueing them to the plastic parts. I added a [decoupling capacitor](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decoupling_capacitor) to make sure the LEDs are provided with a gradual voltage increase on power up and a gradual decrease in voltage when powered down. This gives the effect that the lights do not instantly turn on and off, but fade in and out. It is also better for the LEDs I think.
+I had al een test-circuit gemaakt op een breadboard om de LEDs te testen met een 9 volt batterij. Dit was om te controleren of de LED's goed werkte en of ze het gewenste effect zouden geven voordat ik ze zou vastlijmen. Met een [ontkoppel-condensator](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decoupling_capacitor) kon ik ervoor zorgen dat de LEDs een geleidelijke, klimmende spanning konden krijgen als stroom gaat lopen, maar ook een geleidelijke afbouw van spanning als het cicuit onderbroken zou worden met de knop. Dit geeft het effect dat de lampjes niet direct aan en uit gaan. Het is ook beter voor de levensduur van de LEDs denk ik.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ tester circuit 1
+
+
+
-The actual circuit would make use of a PIR (Proximity Infrared) sensor and a 12 volt power source by using 8 AA batteries of 1,5 volt.
+Het uiteindelijke circuit zou gebruik maken van een PIR (Proximity Infrared) sensor met een 12 volt krachtbron door 8 AA batterijen van 1,5 volt te gebruiken.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ tester circuit 2
+
+
+
-As for the LEDs I used the following:
+Ik heb de volgende LEDs gebruikt:
-* 2 green, for the eyes.
-* 1 blue, for the camera on top of its head.
-* 1 pink, for the vulcan pod attached to the head.
-* 4 warm white, for the thrusters on the back.
-* 1 pink, for the weapon.
-* 1 blue, for the cockpit.
+* 2 groene, voor de ogen.
+* 1 blauwe, voor de camera in de hanekam bovenop het hoofd.
+* 1 roze, voor het vulcan pod wapen aan het hoofd.
+* 4 warm wit, voor de straalmotoren op de rug.
+* 1 roze, voor het wapen.
+* 1 blauwe, voor de cockpit.
-All of these are **Miniature Wired LEDs - 0805 SMT LED**, by Adafruit. What is interesting about these, is that despite the colours, they all have a forward voltage of 3.2V and a current limit of 20mA specified, which makes it easy for me to combine them in series.
+Al deze lampjes zijn **Miniature Wired LEDs - 0805 SMT LED**, gemaakt door Adafruit, die je kunt kopen bij Kiwi Electronics. Wat interessant is dat ze allemaal een doorlaatspanning hebben van 3.2V en allemaal een stroom van 20mA gespecificeerd, wat het wel makkelijk maakt om ze allemaal in serie te schakelen.
-Now that I knew what I wanted, I could use a small [perfboard](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfboard) and solder some connectors to it. Those green and blue connectors are called terminal blocks and are ideal for connecting wires. I bought those at the [ModelSpoorBeurs](https://www.msvw.nl/) event in Weert from a stand called [modelbouwled.nl](https://modelbouwled.nl) in the Netherlands. This place has a lot of material related to the train hobby, including these very useful electronics. The decoupling capacitor is a Panasonic 16 volt, 2200μF capacitor. And finally a little toggle switch and a 1KΩ potentiometer in parallel to slightly alter the brightness to my liking.
+Nu dat ik er uit was wat ik wilde maken, heb ik een [prototype-bord](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfboard) gebruikt om wat connectoren aan vast te solderen. De groene en blauwe connectoren zijn "terminal blocks" en zijn ideaal voor het verbinden van draden. Ik heb deze gekocht bij het [ModelSpoorBeurs](https://www.msvw.nl/) evenement in Weert van een winkel genaamd [modelbouwled.nl](https://modelbouwled.nl). Ze hebben veel materiaal voor de trein-hobby, waaronder deze handige connectoren. De ontkoppel-condensator is een Panasonic 16 volt, 2200μF condensator. En ten slotte nog een kleine schakelaar en een 1KΩ potentiometer in parallel om een klein beetje de helderheid te kunnen aanpassen naar wat ik mooi vond.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ bord afgemaakt
+
+
+
-Of course this board also had to be tested with some LEDs.
+Natuurlijk moest dit bordje ook even getest worden met wat LEDs.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ bord testen
+
+
+
-A simple way to attach the electronics is to screw them in the wood. If I want to re-use these parts for a new model, I can easily take it apart.
+Een makkelijke manier om de elektronica vast te maken is door het met houtschroefjes te bevestigen. Als ik ooit deze spullen wil hergebruiken, dan kan ik het gemakkelijk uit elkaar halen.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ elektronica op het houten bord
+
+
+
-Those larger screws in the corners and middle of the wooden board are to balance the diorama on top. This is very convenient, as you can just screw it in deeper to make adjustments.
+De grote schroeven in de hoeken en in het midden van het houten bordje zijn om het diorama bovenop te balanceren. Dit is best handig, want je hoeft alleen maar aan te draaien om heel kleine aanpassingen te kunnen doen.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ diorama bovenop
+
+
+
-## Frame
+## Kader
-To hide the electronics, I cut some plastic pieces from Evergreen Scale Models plate with a Tamiya Scriber. To prepare them for airbrushing, it helps to cement some pieces of sprue on the back, so that they can be easily clipped. The backsides will not be visible later.
+Om de elektronica te verbergen, heb ik stukken plastic gesneden van Evergreen Scale Models met een Tamiya krasser om een kadertje te kunnen maken. Om ze voor te bereiden voor de airbrush, helpt het om aan de achterkant stukjes sprue vast te maken met cement. Die kunnen later makkelijk afgeknipt worden en zijn toch niet zichtbaar.
-
+
+
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+
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+
+
+
+ evergreen scale models platen
+
+
+
-
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+
+
+ kader plaatjes
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ kader geairbrushed
+
+
+
-With the frame painted, it could now be attached to the wooden board. I used CA glue for this, along with some hot glue. Though I am not sure how effective the hot glue will hold hold it to the wood, it might just help a bit. I did score the plastic with a knife before attaching, basically adding lots of deep scratches. This helps the CA glue to grip a little more onto the plastic. It turned out pretty sturdy, so I think this worked well. I did not use the two smaller plates, it was easier to remove the top diorama this way and it made it less noticable that the lowest wood piece was not symmetrical.
+Nu dat het kader van verf was voorzien, kon het vastgemaakt worden aan het houten bord. Ik heb hiervoor CA lijm en ook wat hete lijm. Ik ben alleen niet zeker hoe effectief die hete lijm is om het vast te houden aan het hout, maar misschien helpt het een beetje. Ik heb het plastic gekrast met een mes, een techniek die "scoring" heet, zodat de lijm meer grip heeft op het materiaal. Ik heb die twee kleinere plaatjes niet gebruikt, want zo was het handiger om het diorama te kunnen verwijderen en viel het minder op dat mijn onderste plankje niet symmetrisch was.
-
+
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+
+
+ kader vastgelijmd
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ voetstuk compleet
+
+
+
-## Completing the model
+## Het model afmaken
-With the box complete, I could now attach the Gundam to it and connect the wires underneath. It turned out the wires for the rifle were just too short, so I extended those by soldering additional wire and sealing it with a heatshrink.
+Nu dat het voetstuk compleet is, kon ik de Gundam vastmaken en de bedrading verbinden. Achteraf waren de draden naar het geweer iets te kort, dus die moest ik nog even verlengen en dichtmaken met krimpkous.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ model compleet
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ krimpkous
+
+
+
-I wanted to add something more to the diorama, so I created a field antenna and added some more soldiers. Especially these soldiers help add scale to the whole Gundam, because my diorama does not help. The wall is huge, so at least now it is easier to get an impression of the scale.
+Ik wou nog een paar extra dingen toevoegen aan het diorama, dus heb ik een veldantenne gemaakt en en paar soldaatjes toegevoegd. Deze soldaatjes zorgen er mooi voor de schaal van de Gundam mooi tot zijn recht komt, want de rest van mijn diorama met die grote muur helpt daar niet echt mee...
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ antenne
+
+
+
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ soldaten
+
+
+
And another moment of euforia, is to finally see all those LED's turn on, to see my work paid off in the end. Although, those warm-white LED's give it a bit of a desk lamp feeling, I think I should have used orange there instead.
-
+En het volgende momentje van euforie, is om eindelijk al die LEDjes tegelijk aan te zien gaan. Hoewel, die warm-witte LED's geven het een beetje het gevoel van een bureaulamp, misschien had ik beter oranje kunnen gebruiken daar.
-
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ Gundam, power on!
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ Inclusief bureaulamp
+
+
+
## Scale Model Challenge 2025
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